Throughout her life, Lewis, who died Feb.
She described hog-butchering season and the celebratory atmosphere during that bountiful time. Reading from handwritten notes in a voice so soft that we had to strain to hear, she talked about her childhood as the granddaughter of a slave in rural Freetown, Va. Why on earth, here in a plush banquet room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, would she choose to serve us this? Because Lewis loved it. This was, after all, perhaps the most revered Southern chef in American history, famous for the she-crab soup and chocolate soufflés that drew the likes of Eleanor Roosevelt, Greta Garbo and Truman Capote to Cafe Nicholson, the New York restaurant where she had once cooked.
Noses wrinkled.īewildered glances and private snickers were exchanged. Silence fell upon the audience as she proudly revealed the star attraction: liver pudding, a brown, unadorned slab that looked no more appetizing than its name suggested. Digital Replica Edition Home Page Close MenuĪtlanta – Edna Lewis – still striking at almost 80, wearing her signature silver chignon, dangly earrings and one of her many colorful African-print gowns underneath her chef’s coat – helped prepare a special lunch of Southern delicacies in 1994 for a meeting of the Association of Food Journalists, with several other chefs, including her friend and protégé, Scott Peacock.
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